Bruni Wants More From Cabrito; Cuozzo Defends At Vermilion

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Cabrito's inconsistencies baffle Frank Bruni and result in a one-star review for a place whose "porky preoccupations" he loved when it was good. [NYT]

Ryan Sutton thinks most people go to Macao Trading Co. for the scenery, not the food: The place is basically a tarted-up takeout joint, which is to say the choices are endless and pointless. [Bloomberg]
Related: Inside Macao Trading Co.

Steve Cuozzo throws some love to Shang, Rouge Tomate, and At Vermilion, three restaurants he believes "offer adventure for a relative pittance." [NYP]

Skip the fish at Buttermilk Channel, advises Danyelle Freeman, but enjoy the rest of the menu: This is where you see the subtlety of making familiar foods with superior ingredients and a little imagination. [NYDN]
Related: A Closer Look at Buttermilk Channel

Though there are commendable dishes coming out of the kitchen, writes Jay Cheshes of Salumeria Rosi, the artisanal meats are probably the best reason to visit. [TONY]

Gael Greene gives Corton another shot, and likes it better this time. Liebrandt is getting more right more of the time, she concedes. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: Corton's Menu, Illustrated

Alan Richman calls the food at Vinegar Hill House uneven, but that doesnt make it a bad place for dinner. Inasmuch as there is no other restaurant in Vinegar Hill, he writes, locals might be grateful enough for its presence to fill it up. [Forked/GQ]

Andrea Thompson liked Braeburn well enough, but didnt find it memorable. [NYer]

Out in Elmhurst, Robert Sietsema swoons over Ayada: "I'd just returned, at least figuratively, to Thailand's glittering capital and been amazed at the variety and richness of the cooking." [VV]