the other critics

Another Loogie Hocked on Luger: Not As Good As Morton’s?

Another Loogie Hocked on Luger: Not As Good As Morton’s?

Photo: Gavin Thomas

Gersh Kuntzman of the Brooklyn Paper is the latest to try to tip the sacred cow that is Peter Luger, and he’s not content to merely call it “an over-rated, obnoxious, pompous, unsatisfying, overpriced and underwhelming restaurant that serves a single, well-prepared dish.” He ups the ante by declaring the new Brooklyn outpost of Morton’s a superior restaurant, since you have more options and get better service (“Being a customer at Peter Luger is like being an extra on a Hollywood movie set. Your presence is necessary, of course, but it['s] entirely incidental to the main action”), and also because the steak tastes meatier (“Peter Luger’s essential failure: the meat is missing an essential beefiness. Each bite releases a pleasing mouthful of rich juice, but only the faintest taste of steak”). Of course, the better service that Kuntzman received at Morton’s might have something to do with the fact that he fluffed the place up before it opened…

Make no mis-steak — choose Morton’s over Peter Luger [Brooklyn Paper]

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