the other critics

Bruni Balks at Braeburn; Order Charcuterie at 10 Downing

Frank Bruni is weary of downtown restaurants "that honor Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm," and Braeburn tries his patience. Chef Brian Bistrong presents "an earnestness that's palpable, often pleasurable, and also a little dull." [NYT]

The charcuterie at 10 Downing compensates for the restaurant's noise level and navigational challenges. Chef Jason Neroni's "approach is to simplify a classic, take it apart, isolate it. By doing so, he gives it a new clarity," writes Danyelle Freeman. [NYDN]

Ryan Sutton sums up the Oak Room: "After an elaborate renovation, the restaurant still charges exorbitant sums for uninspired food." But you should still get a drink at the bar. [Bloomberg]

Gael Greene expects little from Rouge Tomate and is annoyed by the whole health-food premise. "It takes a few minutes to notice that the food is mostly good; indeed, very good," she concedes. [Insatiable Critic]

Motorino "is really just a goosed-up neighborhood pizza parlor," says Robert Sietsema, though the pies are "lush and shareable." [VV]

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