Andy Yang, owner of the endlessly entertaining Kurve, tells us that he was a bit surprised that Bruni chose to review him, and he thinks that the Times critic completely misunderstood the place when he compared it to “a nail salon on Venus.” Yang tells us, “Venus is the goddess of love, and the restaurant is pink, and I think pink is a very manly color.” Bruni just didn’t understand, Yang says, that the food is meant to surprise people who wouldn’t expect it of a lounge. And he was wrong to sling accusations of spaghetti-carbonara trendiness since, Yang says, the dish has been common in Thailand for over a decade — heavy cream and eggs are a good way of tempering basil and chile. He was also mistaken to call Pichet Ong’s desserts unremarkable, says Yang — they were purposefully simple in order to serve the restaurant’s mantra, “simplicity is complicity.” Okaaay. Anyway, Yang is putting the teasing behind him and tomorrow he’ll launch a winter menu that includes a selection of vegan dishes and a burger of Wagyu beef rubbed with basil and marinated with garlic and pepper. Regarding the latter, Yang promises that “Mr. Bruni might find it odd.”
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