The Pizza Speaks With a Belgian-French Accent at Motorino

By and

Williamsburgs newest pie man, Mathieu Palombino, was born in Belgium, speaks French, and has cooked at Bouley, Cello, and most recently BLT Fish, where he ran the kitchen and earned a Michelin star. But dont hold that against him. Deep down, Palombino who opens Motorino on Monday has always felt he was put on this earth to answer a higher calling. That calling, he has determined in this advanced stage in his career, is to flip dough, ladle sauce, and turn pizza around the ovens hot spot. I always believed in pizza, says the chef. Pizza for me is not just a snack. Its a magnificent thing. It should be noted that magnificence, according to Palombino, doesnt only reveal itself in classic permutations like the Margherita and the Marinara. Thus, Motorinos wood-fired brick oven will also accommodate such freewheeling pies as the Gorgonzola-speck-and-cippolini-onion and the iconoclastic mussels and mozzarella. And, in the current Otto-inspired pizzeria-plus fashion, Motorino augments its carb-centric menu with salads, antipasti, cheese, salumi, and equipment arrival pending gelati.

Motorino, 319 Graham Ave., nr. Devoe St.; 718-599-8899