Bruni Joins Convivio Chorus; Drink Up at Apothéke

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If you haven't snagged a table at Convivio yet, you'll have to wait. Frank Bruni grants Michael White three stars and praises his pasta, his prices, and his wine list: "The ratio of can’t-miss to not-quite dishes is more favorable than it was shortly after the chef Michael White took charge of the kitchen at L’Impero in mid-2007." [NYT]

Ryan Sutton suggests you let Apothèke’s Albert Trummer “make you a drink; in fact, let him make you five.” [Bloomberg]
Related: Albert Trummer’s ‘Novice Apothekers’ Are at Your Service

At Allegretti, Jay Cheshes finds the traditional French regional cooking he’s been seeking: “Though the room probably won’t transport you to the French Riviera, the chef’s food certainly will.” [TONY]

Danyelle Freeman calls Braai an “African date-hut” and loves the South African wine list, but concludes that “it’s not easy to pull off Afrikaans barbecue in Hell’s Kitchen.” [NYDN]

Gael Greene says the menu at Double Crown is “interesting,” but laments the portion sizes. [Insatiable Critic/NYM]

Alan Richman fears the Libertine may decline after Todd English moves out of the kitchen, but for now finds it a good spot for sharing and snacking. [GQ]

Nizza’s atmosphere seems closer to diner than to charming French boîte,” writes Leo Carey. He praises the regional specialties and says the “standard of cooking is often equal to that of a much more ambitious restaurant.” [NYer]