A Moment of Appreciation: Doughnuts on a Stick

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Photo: Melissa Hom

Kudos to Serious Eats for discovering fishball skewers and “hot dog flowers” in Chinatown. We’ve tasted the fish kebabs and they’re rubbery as handballs. But worth trying are these doughnuts on a stick at Double Crispy Bakery (230 Grand Street near Bowery), our go-to spot for dried pork buns, preserved-egg pastries, and the like. Maybe it's the cooking oil, but the fried dough, despite being bombed with sugar, somehow tastes more like a spring roll than churros (those are available nearby at Despaña) — not that that ruins the sheer beauty of a doughnut skewer.