Frank Likes James; Becker Could Save Sheridan Square

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Frank Bruni treks to Prospect Heights to eat at James, and calls it a "Mom-and-Pop operation for the Alice Waters era." Much praise, and one star. [NYT]

The turnover at Sheridan Square shows, writes Paul Adams: "[C]onfusion is now one of the restaurant's key features." But he deems Franklin Becker's food "exceptional." [NYS]

But Jay Cheshes is less hopeful about Sheridan Square: "Becker, giving it his best shot, seems stymied by his surroundings, not quite sure whether to let loose or rein himself in." [TONY]

Gael Greene accidentally visits Bloomingdale Road on its first night and gets an uneven meal, but finds much to like: chowder shooters, smoked fries, and whole-wheat fettuccine. [Insatiable Critic]

Danyelle Freeman wishes she could be a regular at Allegretti and finds the Niçois ravioli to be representative of the restaurant: “upscale, yet accessible.” [NYDN]

Ryan Sutton revisits Lever House under Bradford Thompson and doesn’t care for the burger (“even the wealthy will feel ripped off”), the noise, the clientele, or the portion sizes. [Bloomberg]

Andrea Strong writes that the General Greene “has set out to become a staple in its own right,” and finds promise in the burger. Also: Order the chocolate chip cookies. [NYer]

In Jackson Heights, Robert Sietsema says Delhi Heights is "the best advocate for Indian-Chinese" food in town, but warns that the prices are high for the neighborhood. [VV]