Crimes Against Seasonality

Food-police line, do not cross.
Food-police line, do not cross. Photo: Shanna Ravindra

At which West Village restaurant whose name “telegraphs seasonal and local” does out-of-season asparagus shockingly appear twice on the eighteen-dish menu? Once accompanying crispy soft-shell crabs and then as a side dish with pecorino, black pepper, and egg? The restaurant also serves English peas in its roasted halibut dish. Jill Santopietro doesn’t name the place because its crimes are too egregious, but it’s almost definitely the little owl’s sister restaurant, Market Table. [Moment/NYT]