Ex–Resto Chef Ryan Skeen to Take Over at Irving Mill

By

The Times reports today that Ryan Skeen, late of Resto, will take the reins at Haute Barnyard yearling Irving Mill. (Skeen was last seen helping out buddy Nick Morgenstern at the General Greene.) Its a smart, if slightly risky, move for Irving Mills owners. Skeen is an edgy, talented, assertive chef who will give the place the one thing it needs: a culinary identity. Under previous chef John Schaefers administration, Irving Mill was a poor mans Gramercy Tavern, with all the dressing but none of the brilliance of Michael Anthonys kitchen. But Skeen is also a young guy who has never run a major kitchen and may not be emotionally ready to motivate a large staff. After eating his fat-happy, Pelaccio-esque food at Resto, were on pins and needles to see what he does with a major kitchen, though, and its accompanying budget. Whether there will be so many vegetables on the menu is another question.

Resto's Skeen Moves to Irving Mill [NYT]