Everything You Wanted to Know About Lox, But Were Afraid to Ask

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Don't go in just asking for "lox."Photo: Kate Appleton

In New York, you are always meeting pizza mavens, hamburger mavens, sushi mavens but wait a second. This being New York, where are the lox mavens? You never hear them discoursing on all the ins and outs of smoked salmon, and yet the dish is a lot more a part of New Yorks DNA than sushi is. (Or is lox technically sushi?) The Amateur Gourmet today gives a crash course in lox via smoked-fish guru Mark Russ Federman, owner of Russ & Daughters. Federman gives tasting notes on eight different kinds of lox, including western wild salmon, gaspe (the classic nova lox), Scottish salmon, gravlox, kippered salmon, Irish salmon, pastrami lox (Mark marveled at its lack of popularity, at how it has remained in the novelty-lox ghetto) and the classic belly lox (This is exactly what lox tasted like when my grandfather started selling it from a pushcart in 1914.) Print this up and tape it to your refrigerator; these are words that will never wither or lose relevance.

The Science of Fressing [Amateur Gourmet]