The James Beard Award–winning Bradford Thompson makes his New York debut tonight at Lever House with a menu that is finally his own. The moment of truth is here. Having eaten his food, we know the man can cook. We’ve had his grilled veal tenderloin with crispy sweetbreads; what will his chanterelle and mascarpone risotto be like? Our expectations are sky-high, and so are owner John McDonald’s. “I am most interested and focused on loosening up the ‘American’ direction with the cuisine and allowing for international influences,” he says of Thompson’s eclectic, globally sourced menu. Except for his hamburger, of course. That’s pure Americana.