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‘Bon Appétit’ Gives New York’s Women Chefs Short Shrift

From left to right: Melissa Perello, Kelly Liken, Naomi Pomeroy, Allison Vines-Rushing, Alexandra Raij, and Ashley Christensen.

Bon Appétit’s Restaurant issue has just hit our desk, and while most of the features are just conduits for recipes (we get a very soft-focus view of Thomas Keller cooking with winemakers Sarah and Joel Gott), it’s worth noting that Tokyo is declared the “cocktail capital of the world” (take that, New York mixologists!) and that only one New York City chef (discounting Dirty Bird To-Go proprietor Allison Vines-Rushing, who is based in New Orleans) is among the six featured in “Women Chefs: The Next Generation.” Alexandra Raij, who is “in the planning stages of a new restaurant,” doesn’t mind when her cooking is described as feminine: “There is a sensuality. I feel like I touch food more than a lot of people. I don’t have a lot of tasting spoons in my pocket. I put my finger in it and I touch it and taste it, and I taste it over and over and over again.” Okay, now we’re seeing why that uni panino got Andrea Strong so hot and bothered.
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