No one goes to the theater to eat (evidence of incessant candy-wrapper crinkling to the contrary). But today, on an obscure, seldom-traveled block in Hudson Square, in the shadow of the hulking Trump Soho, the newly renovated Here Arts Center has opened an adjacent caf that exceeds theater-concession expectations to such an appealing degree, it stands to become a neighborhood destination even among nonticket holders. Thats because 1 Dominick, named for its address off Sixth Avenue, is under the culinary jurisdiction of Jimmy Carbone, an East Village fixture who first gained a following at the quirky Mugsys Chow Chow, and now runs the cozy rathskeller Jimmys No. 43.
At the counter-service caf, where colored-glass accordion doors open to reveal a handful of tables and a dining counter, Carbone skews Italian, serving bomboloni and frittata panini at breakfast, and then a lengthier list of small plates for lunch and dinner. Among them: a mint-dappled watermelon-and-ricotta salata salad; a platter of cured meats procured from top-notch American producers like Salumeria Biellese, Berkeleys Fra Mani, and Iowas La Quercia; and the fried bologna tramezzino, an affectionate Americanization of the classic Italian mortadella sandwich. Theres fave e cicoria, the Puglian fava pure with sauted dandelion greens, and a Ligurian-style flatbread stuffed with a mixture of crme frache, Greek yogurt, and ricotta. Its wine-bar food, minus the wine (the license is forthcoming). For now, Brooklyn-roasted Gorilla coffee should suffice, and keep theatergoers alert till the curtain falls. Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld
1 Dominick, 1 Dominick St., at Sixth Ave.; 212-647-0202, ext. 308