We here at MenuPages love a burrito done right, when the tortilla holds in a medley of complementary tastes, so that the sum of the product is greater than the parts. Too often, though, something goes wrong, and the result is a burrito that’s sub-par or simply gross: The meat might be dry or grizzled; an overdose of salsa might make the wrap soggy; or something has gone in that would be better left out (e.g., lettuce).
It’s no surprise that Angela’s Cafe in East Boston gets it right. Much praised for its mole, gorditas, and other authentic Mexican delights, Angela’s has one of the tastiest burritos around. Maybe it’s the lack of options: you choose pork, chicken, or steak, but are left with the standard fixings (rice, beans, cheese, sour cream, and a divine, lemony guacamole). It’s almost as if the cooks know a good formula, and won’t allow you to mess with it. No one ingredient overpowers the others, so the result holds up well in flavor and in form (i.e., you won’t need a fork halfway through). A side of chips is worth the extra $2. They’re fresh, thick, and only slightly greasy. Fewer under-$10 meals are more satisfying; if only they were kinder to our waistlines.
Angela’s Cafe [Cave Cibum]
