Maremma’s Farewell Feast

From left, Fabio Trachocchi, Anne Burrell, and Cesare Casella, around 1 a.m.
From left, Fabio Trachocchi, Anne Burrell, and Cesare Casella, around 1 a.m. Photo: Josh Ozersky


Though Florent got all the attention this weekend, another restaurant closed too: Cesare Casella’s Maremma. The Italian restaurant lasted only three years, but it had its fans, among them a disproportionate number of chefs, food writers, and Italian nationals. Representatives from all three groups showed up to close the restaurant on Saturday. In tribute to Casella’s trademark bouquet of rosemary, a lot of the men, and even a few of the women, tore branches off the restaurant’s rosemary plant and put them in their breast pockets. Casella was his usually merry self, if a little subdued, but the guest list was surely gratifying: Del Posto’s Mark Ladner, Centro Vinoteca’s Anne Burrell, Cesca’s Kevin Garcia, Fiamma’s Fabio Trabocchi, and a dozen other peers and friends.

Heritage USA meat activist Patrick Martins and burger czar Pat LaFrieda make nice.
Heritage USA meat activist Patrick Martins and burger czar Pat LaFrieda make nice. Photo: Josh Ozersky

Fiamma sommelier Ania Zawieja let loose on a makeshift dance floor.Photo: Josh Ozersky