Maremma’s Farewell Feast

Heritage USA meat activist Patrick Martins and burger czar Pat LaFrieda make nice.Fiamma sommelier Ania Zawieja let loose on a makeshift dance floor. Photo: Josh Ozersky

Though Florent got all the attention this weekend, another restaurant closed too: Cesare Casella’s Maremma. The Italian restaurant lasted only three years, but it had its fans, among them a disproportionate number of chefs, food writers, and Italian nationals. Representatives from all three groups showed up to close the restaurant on Saturday. In tribute to Casella’s trademark bouquet of rosemary, a lot of the men, and even a few of the women, tore branches off the restaurant’s rosemary plant and put them in their breast pockets. Casella was his usually merry self, if a little subdued, but the guest list was surely gratifying: Del Posto’s Mark Ladner, Centro Vinoteca’s Anne Burrell, Cesca’s Kevin Garcia, Fiamma’s Fabio Trabocchi, and a dozen other peers and friends.