Williamsburg has a reputation for being full of disaffected hipsters. Do they really care where their food comes from?
Absolutely. The majority are NYU-student dipshits who are buying their clothes at Urban Outfitters and are living here because its cool. The people that are actually the avant-garde the people who are pushing hipster culture forward, who are actually intelligent and arent just into ironic T-shirts are interested in a large spectrum of things, and food is just one of them
So whats your beef with the Fancy Foods Show?
The Fancy Food Show has turned into this joke its mostly commodities stuff that is no different than a barrel of oil. Theres a limited supply, and people go and negotiate deals. Its a big business most of the stuff is imported or produced industrially. Were having people who actually make the stuff in small-production batches, literally by hand. The other orthodoxy that were reacting to is the one at the Greenmarket the sort of Alice Waters, precious, lets-all-pat-ourselves-on-the-back-liberal-guilt kind of joyless thing that the Greenmarkets are. Or the culture that surrounds them. (Im not knocking the Greenmarket). Its that culture of joyless healthy consumption as sort of penance for being able to drive SUVs or something. We wanted it to become fun again.
Obviously, you think theres a need for a Greenmarket alternative.
Our next step will be a thing called the Blackmarket. Itll be a small e-mail list where people will be invited the week before to sell their moonshine and pickles and homemade bitters things that are illegal to sell because no one is producing them in a commercial kitchen.
Moonshine aside, tell me about someone whos doing something interesting outside of the Greenmarket system?
Mateo [Kehler] from Jasper Hill has built an enormous 22,000-square-foot underground-cave complex in the northeast kingdom of Vermont where he has started doing European-style cooperative affinage and distribution. Hes getting all these small producers to give him cheese, and he ages cheese for them. Hes going to move forward into aging hams and stuff like that. Hes really the future of small or slow food.
How about someone who doesnt make food?
The Cut Brooklyn guy makes chef knives by hand in this tiny workshop down in Gowanus. Each knife has ten hours of labor in it.
So what do you see as the next trend in this area? The next Greenmarket?
The Greenmarket very soon is going to lose its Im not going to say its monopoly, since I dont think theres anything inherently evil about them. But on that sort of bizarre market sort of thing. Robert LaVal is trying to do the New Amsterdam Market. Hes trying to get one of those old Fulton Fish markets turned into a permanent indoor market like the Embarcadero in San Francisco. And then obviously what were doing with the Blackmarket. And that maker mind-set where people are reverse engineering and making stuff out of recycled goods (making a table out of a door), and where people are producing things again, thats really big, especially here in Brooklyn.
UnFancy Food Show [Official site]