The Other Critics

Bruni Admires But Doesn’t Love the Harrison; Same for Meehan at Artichoke

It’s hard to convey non-disappointment as the tonic note of a restaurant review, but Frank Bruni pulls it off in a strong, two-star endorsement of the Harrison. The only fault is Jimmy Bradley’s retro soundtrack which is “neither classic, nor cool. Just odd.” But we liked that! [NYT]

Peter Meehan makes his way over to Artichoke Pizza, but you can tell he’s not really impressed by the slice, which he describes as having “a bready, almost tough, crust, generously and greasily topped.” He likes the guys and all their unreliable shtick but won’t say it’s great pizza. [NYT]

Pomme de Terre, the tiny bistro on Newkirk Avenue in Ditmas Park, got its first major review and it was a bombshell: three stars from Restaurant Girl for perfectly executed French standards. [NYDN]

Paul Adams went into bar Q with a high opinion of Anita Lo but came out feeling that the place was spotty at best: “Anita Lo is capable of phenomenal things. It’s too bad those things can be hard to find in Bar Q’s mixed bag.” The review echoes Steve Cuozzo’s, who went there on both on and off nights. [NYS]

Ryan Sutton hits Wildwood Barbeque and found it to be also a mixed bag: exemplary brisket but undersize ribs, “insipid” wings, and sausage which “taste too much like kielbasa” — as if such a thing were possible. [Bloomberg]

The work of Bobo’s new chef, Jared Stafford-Hill, earned the place four stars (of six) from Jay Cheshes, who doesn’t seem impressed by its famously romantic décor; still, he might have tried a little more of the menu. Cheshes seems to have tried only two entrées, which isn’t really fair for a cook as ambitious as Bobo’s. [TONY]

Robert Sietsema finds in Madangsui a Korean barbecue that seems determined to compete with the American version, with a menu that “pelts you with meat,” and fatty meat at that. He makes it sound pretty good, too! [VV]

The Austrian food at Cafe Katja on Orchard Street is heavy and traditional, with plenty of meat, beer, and pretzels, and Lauren Collins is completely down with that. [NYer]

Bruni Admires But Doesn’t Love the Harrison; Same for Meehan at Artichoke