the other critics

Ko’s First Non-Rave Finally Arrives; One Star for Commerce

The first less-than-stellar Ko review is in and suggests that reality is creeping in. Yes, the food was terrific, but you’ve already heard all about it, and the staff isn’t particularly friendly. Plus, “[s]itting on backless, uncushioned wooden stools for more than two hours can be a challenge for the best of us.” [WSJ]

It’s one-star time for Commerce; Frank Bruni admires chef Harold Moore’s as “ambitious and unpredictable,” but not necessarily in a good way. And the place is LOUD. [NYT]
Related: Commercial Appeal

A surprise two-star review for the mostly unnoticed Korhogo 126 in Brooklyn; Restaurant Girl loves the African spices. But did she really have to say that it had “soul”? [NYDN]
Related: Embattled Bistro Now Serving ‘Nouveau African’ at Korhogo 126

The Cuozz is crazy about Adour, which he says is a triumph over Alain Ducasse’s prior mistakes: “[D]ishes from executive chef Tony Esnault's kitchen blow away the past.” Another big win for Adour. [NYP]

Paul Adams weighs in on Terroir and calls out the excellence of the food, from meatballs to pork steak, before even getting around to the brilliant wine program. [NYS]

In what might be his Times swan song, Peter Meehan awards the ramen laurels to Ippudo, whose broth he considers a thing of surpassing beauty. [NYT]

South Gate isn’t made to sound like much fun by Ligaya Mishan, who seems to like the food well enough. [NYer]

Didier Virot is “doing his least distinguished cooking to date” at the new Palm Court, which gets a dismal one star (of six) from new Time Out New York critic Jay Cheshes. [TONY]

If you eat at Tamil Nadu Bhavan, an Indian vegetarian restaurant on Lexington Avenue, “you'll come to the conclusion that South Indian vegetarians eat lots of starches and lentils.” Sign us up for that! [VV]

Ryan Sutton, getting first dibs in as usual at Benoit, makes the place sound like an instant classic, with archetypal recipes for cassoulet, roast chicken, and other canonical bistro dishes. [Bloomberg]

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