Small pleasures abound in New York, and this week's issue of the magazine highlights some of them. Sure, there are the major openings and reviews to consider: Rob and Robin issue birth announcements for haute Turkish East Sider Savarona and barbecue behemoth Wildwood, and Platt lays his weighty judgment upon the hapless Persephone and Elettaria. But what stands out this week are little joys: sucking crayfish as they're prepared by Joaquin Baca; a refreshing pink Basque wine recommended by the Robs; some fine butters, tested and presented by Gillian Duffy; and a small but promising-sounding Vietnamese restaurant, Tet, reviewed by Gael Greene. Meanwhile, the Zagats may be about to sell their empire. All this and more, in this week's issue.