Ethically Raised Geese Make for Dan Barber’s Fave Foie Gras

These geese are flying to Extremadura.Photo: Getty Images
Foodies bent on trekking to El Bulli can now add another stop to their Spanish pilgrimage: Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns tells Lancaster Farming that the best foie gras he’s ever tasted (indeed, “the best culinary experience of my life”) comes from a revolutionary Extremadura farm that, rather than force-feeding its 1,000 geese, lets them naturally gorge on nuts, grass, acorns, olives, and figs. So will the superior foie gras be available here in the same way that Ibérico ham was recently legalized? Eh, no. Eduardo Sousa, the goose farmer, says, “Chefs don’t deserve it” because they’d take credit for it. Little does he know how fetishized food sources have become round these parts.

Intrepid Chef Investigates ‘Ethical Foie Gras’ [Lancaster Farming via Michael Ruhlman]