A colleague who has been stalking Momofuku Ko’s reservation site tells us that even when free tables seem to be open, he can’t break through to a confirmation screen when he clicks on them. If he were playing an old-school Nintendo game, we’d tell him to take the cartridge out and blow on it, but apparently no such tricks will make Ko’s system work for him. Now Frank Bruni comes forward to confess that he, too, is losing faith that the system works properly. Nearly a month after Ko opened, he still hasn’t been able to book a seat — and he’s not happy about it.
Actually, it’s one of his designated reservation monkeys, B., who’s pissed — Bruni is careful to maintain a judicious remove: “I’m not saying Ko warrants his wrath, or is doing anything wrong. I’m not saying that at all. And it’s certainly not Mr. Chang’s fault for creating this kind of demand, this clamor for reservations. It’s an accomplishment.” You hear that, Mr. Chang? Now can you accomplish a table for this poor bastard?
Going Ko-Ko [Diner’s Journal/NYT]