In addition to sommelier Alessandra Rotondis mostly French wine selections, there will be 102 cognacs by the glass, some of them available in pairings and also used in dishes such as the table-side filet mignon and lobster flambs. More shades of Balthazar: tin ceilings, romantic murals, a zinc bar from France, and an adjacent bakery churning out croissants, baguettes, and rotisserie chicken. And just a dash of Artisanal: 40 varieties of cheeses are on display at the counter you see here. Cognac is going to need 'em all: They have about a week to instill customer loyalty before Ducasse touches down.
Brasserie Cognac de Monsieur Ballon, 1740 Broadway, nr. 55th St.; 212-757-3600