Gary Robins to Try His Hand at ‘Rustic Elegance’ at Sheridan Square

Meet the man who invented foie gras wontons.
Meet the man who invented foie gras wontons.haha Photo: Patrick McMullan

The mystery of Gary Robins’s new West Village restaurant has been solved. The former Biltmore Room and Russian Tea Room chef tells us that his new place, in the space that formerly housed Café Rafaella and Central Kitchen, will be a New American restaurant called Sheridan Square. There will be a wood-burning oven and a wood grill, and the menu, though something of a departure from Robins’s usual luxe style, will have “a little bit of rustic elegance to it.”

And though it will be significantly less expensive than either the Biltmore Room or the Russian Tea Room, expect signature dishes, like the foie gras wontons in golden oxtail broth that immobilized diners at the Biltmore Room. “My style will still be there,” he says. “But there may only be five or six ingredients in a dish instead of twenty.” The restaurant, which will also have a 250-bottle wine program focusing on American production, will likely open in early March.