There will be all-natural steaks from Niman and Brandt ranches, including a New York strip, a filet, and possibly a Wagyu or Kobe cut of some kind. But for Brennan, it is the chance to do the big côte de boeuf a massive rib steak for two, wheeled up tableside and then carved back in the kitchen that motivated the change. “Our biggest item by far is the hangar steak,” the cheese guru muses, “but the steak I’ve always loved the most is côte de boeuf. I love it roasted and seared, and with a buttery rare inside. We needed to have that on the menu. I missed it. It will be aged 60 days, and served with a trio of béarnaise sauce, bordelaise sauce, and a shallot confit. I’m calling it the Steak Frite Royale.” There will be standard wine pairings on the menu, too. But can you get a Royale with cheese? Presumably Artisanal would be the place.