Cheeses must wane, and meats must wax at Artisanal.Photo courtesy ArtisanalDespite the sky-high cost of meat and the rarity of aged prime, steaks continue to be a hot investment for today’s restaurateurs. Now even cheese guru Terrance Brennan has joined the bovine gravy train, introducing a whole steak-frites section to the Artisanal menu.
There will be all-natural steaks from Niman and Brandt ranches, including a New York strip, a filet, and possibly a Wagyu or Kobe cut of some kind. But for Brennan, it is the chance to do the big côte de boeuf — a massive rib steak for two, wheeled up tableside and then carved back in the kitchen — that motivated the change. “Our biggest item by far is the hangar steak,” the cheese guru muses, “but the steak I’ve always loved the most is côte de boeuf. I love it roasted and seared, and with a buttery rare inside. We needed to have that on the menu. I missed it. It will be aged 60 days, and served with a trio of béarnaise sauce, bordelaise sauce, and a shallot confit. I’m calling it the Steak Frite Royale.” There will be standard wine pairings on the menu, too. But can you get a Royale with cheese? Presumably Artisanal would be the place.