Center Cut to Serve Just That; Maxim Just What Meatpacking Deserves

Ono: too subdued and subtle for the neighborhood.Photo: Eric Laignel

So why is Jeffrey Chodorows new Lincoln Center meatery to be called Center Cut? Because it will be devoted to the center cuts of meat! There will be center-cut steaks, center-cut pork chops, center-cut venison, and so forth, says the chef's rep Karine Bakhoum. We are flabbergasted. Such a proposition sounds insanely expensive and is also silly, since the first two ribs off the shoulder (ribs 1 and 2 in the trade) are by far the best ones, with the biggest portion of the spinalis dorsi muscle, also known as the lip or deckle.

We also heard that Ono, though being replaced by the Maxim steakhouse, is not quite done for. But it doesn't have a new spot yet, either. The restaurant which Bakhoum reminds us is hugely successful, was put into suspended animation just because, get this, Ono is too classy for the meatpacking district! Or thats how we interpret it, anyway. Maxim belongs in that space and hood Bakhoum says. Theres no arguing with that! Its official, Mr. McNally. The fight is over, and the vulgarians have won.

Off the Menu [NYT]
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