In the meat business, sourcing is the ultimate boast: Its not enough to claim your meat is prime, when any meathead worth his cholesterol knows how promiscuously that once-proud term is thrown around. No, todays steakhouse has to have boutique sources or, even better, their own prize bull, as at Primehouse NY. But no meat man has a more obsessive take on quality than Adam Perry Lang. The Robert's and Daisy May chef tells us that hes currently in the process of researching what will be his own beef program in Montana. Its so important to understand it, to be able to control whats happening. I want to say that Im doing everything I can to get it where I want it. I want to raise beef the right way. I want to know Im doing the right thing.
Langs moralistic take is more than just Haute Barnyard rhetoric. Having just established a meat mecca in Las Vegas at Carnevino, the chef has been flying around the country, touring ranches and slaughterhouses, and talking to breeders about genetics and feeding. The product hes looking to help create is at the very least two years away, Lang says. But once its in place, he will be able to serve vertical integration on a plate. We cant wait to carve a slice.