Yakitori Taisho Starts Saying ‘Irrashaimasse!’ One Hour Earlier

We’re leaving work early.Photo: Daniel Maurer
We usually flee Momofuku when there’s a line, but Yakitori Taisho is a different story: When you wait there you’re treated to a spectacle of boisterous grillmasters blasting flamethrowers, sending fireballs up to the ceiling, and feeling no pain as they turn over sizzling chicken-gizzard skewers (trust us, it’s much better than blowing $70 on Fuerzabruta tickets). Next month Taisho will start serving its “Japanese soul food” an hour earlier, at 5 p.m., and while that may not seem like big news to those who aren’t members of the cult, an extra hour of fish balls fried in cheese — fish balls fried in cheese — is about as good a holiday gift as we could hope for. Sixty-ounce Kirin drafts all around!

Yakitori Taisho menu