The tiny, bright-green place teems with Thai families, and the satellite TV that is omnipresent in Queens ethnic restaurants seems to always be showing some Thai version of Tony Orlando and Dawn. But the food! Chiles sing and shine from every dish, like spotlights hitting the twirling dancers in the Cirque du Soleil; every dish is a spectacle. Moo dad, a kind of hot pork jerky, gets you going in one direction, and then crispy pork in prik khing curry, a dish of fried pork belly pieces with Kaffir limes and mint, in another, more supple, one. We have to differ from our buddy Peter Meehan, who seems to think that the green beans are the star of the show. Please! Such disagreements are unavoidable, and actually a lot of fun: There are so many dishes here, so strongly flavored and so unfamiliar, that you can talk about it all the way back to your home, on the long ride on the V train.
Chao Thai, 8503 Whitney Ave., at Broadway, Elmhurst; 718-424-4999.