Ozersky: Now, Platt, what do you make of this business of Charlie Trotter threatening to come to New York?
Platt: Trotter’s a great chef. But if he’s going to succeed in New York, or San Francisco, of Dubuque, for that matter, he’s going to have to be around. He’s going to have to spend all his time cooking in New York. This is a fickle market, and there are many evil critics waiting in the weeds.
Ozersky: And you most evil of all. But even when these out-of-town chefs are here, often the food is strictly from hunger. Look at Tim Love’s restaurant. Or for that matter, look at the mixed reception Fabio Trabocchi got at the new Fiamma.
Platt: Texas Tim Love was just overmatched. The Trabocchi is clearly talented, but it’s not really his restaurant, and you get the feeling he’s doing everything on the fly. As for the jet-setting divas like Ramsay and Robuchon, they jet in, they jet out. Their operations are less like restaurants and more like high end, haute cuisine franchises. This is a tough town, Cutty. You’ve got to shell out the big money for rent, then you have big lumbering dimwits like you and me trolling through.
Ozersky: I know, that can’t be fun. Even our homegrown chefs dread our appearance. But I think it’s harder for the out-of-town ones, because their creations overawe their hometown brethren and then fall flat here.
Platt: Let me say this for the grand out-of-towners. There’s too much a sense that the chefs have to come here, that it’s their duty to play in New York. In the end, for most of them, it’s a trap.
Ozersky: So what should they do? Not come?
Platt: If I were them, and I had a successful restaurant elsewhere, I would not come. Times have changed. I’m pained to admit it, but in this egalitarian, greenmarket-oriented restaurant economy, you don’t have to have New York on your résumé to be a star.
Ozersky: The hell you don’t! I don’t care how many “best of the Great Lakes” awards you get. If you haven’t brought it here, you’re playing AA ball.
Platt: You’re too myopic, my ursine friend! Great Lakes?!?! They’d get butchered here anyways. But there are plenty of successful chefs in places like San Francisco, Portland, and Los Angeles who don’t come to NYC. I don’t see Mr. Puck setting up shop in Times Square!
Ozersky: Give him time! But maybe you’re right, Platty. I am perhaps somewhat chauvinistic in my attitudes.
Platt: But you’re not wrong! The poor saps keep coming! Look at that poor Japanese gentleman and Wakiya. He’s trying to cook Japanese-Chinese food for a bunch of confused hip-hop fashion victims. The results have been grimly predicable.
Ozersky: Okay, now I feel better.
Most Viewed Stories
Someone Created a Fake Restaurant to Prove That TripAdvisor’s Reviews Are Bogus
Josh ‘the Fat Jew’ Ostrovsky Loves Benihana, Hates Group Birthday Dinners
Whole Foods Executives Admit to Overcharging Customers
SoBe Lifewater Accidentally Reminds Customers How Awful It Must Be to Work at SoBe Lifewater
Everyone — Including President Obama — Hates This Recipe for Guacamole With Peas [Updated]
Latest News from Grub StreetJennifer Lopez Drops by Dos Caminos; Jake Gyllenhaal Lunches at Má Pêche
This week’s Celebrity Settings.A New Study Says Alcohol Literally Makes Bad Food Smell Better
More good news for Taco Bell!Grub Street’s Restaurant Power Rankings: Long Summer Weekend Edition
Find out where to eat in our weekly ranking of the city's most-buzzed-about restaurants.Pommes Frites Still Needs Your Help
The owners have launched a crowd-funding campaign to cover equipment costs.SoBe Lifewater Accidentally Reminds Customers How Awful It Must Be to Work at SoBe Lifewater
A "Help me trapped in SoBe factory" bottle cap joke isn't going over so well.Thomas Keller’s Per Se Agrees to Pay $500,000 After Withholding Servers’ Tips
The restaurant says the confusion stems from "an unintentional oversight."A 93-Year-Old Vet Is Getting NYC’s First Ecofriendly Food Cart
The city has promised disabled veterans the first 100 carts.Lafayette Now Sells Artisanal Push-Pops
A brand-new childhood-throwback dessert.Whole Foods Executives Admit to Overcharging Customers
"Straight up, we made some mistakes."Josh ‘the Fat Jew’ Ostrovsky Loves Benihana, Hates Group Birthday Dinners
"The martinis had olives in them. Is that considered a salad?"
Like working 24-hour shifts, sleeping on beds of dead fish, and watching others jump overboard.Everyone — Including President Obama — Hates This Recipe for Guacamole With Peas [Updated]
You know your recipe is in trouble when the most powerful person in the world goes on record with his disdain.Someone Created a Fake Restaurant to Prove That TripAdvisor’s Reviews Are Bogus
It's not any better than Yelp.Where to Eat, Drink, and Celebrate Fourth of July in New York City This Year
Maison Premiere, Narcissa, the Dutch, and other restaurants are throwing parties and cooking burgers.This Animated Short Explains Why It’s So Hard to Be a Street Vendor in NYC
There's a new campaign calling for the city to raise the number of permits.El Cortez Is the Anti-Tex-Mex Joint Brooklyn’s Been Waiting For
At their just-opened follow-up to the Commodore, Stephen Tanner and Chris Young are ditching queso in favor of nachos, barbecue, Mission-style burritos, and frozen mojitos.A Restaurant Owner Responded to a Bad Yelp Review by Trashing a Customer’s Karaoke Skills
Another reason why Yelp is the worst.The West Village’s Commerce Has Closed
Owner Harold Moore is citing a legal struggle with his landlord.You’ll Soon Be Able to Get Drunk Off Kombucha
An ambitious home-brewer is making beer-bucha happen.This Monstrous Swedish Pizza Is Even Worse Than Hot-Dog Pizza
This latest sacrilege involves a salad and fries.
It's just announced a $30 million investment in carbon-emissions-cutting biofuels.Scientists Say There’s a Link Between Drinking Orange Juice and Getting Skin Cancer
A new study discovered a 36 percent higher risk of melanoma in frequent citrus eaters.Which Fickle-Hipster Beer Should You Be Drinking?
PBR's sales are falling.It’s Time to Say Good-bye to the Styrofoam Beer Cups of New York
The city's upcoming styrofoam ban will effectively end one of the last vestiges of the city's pre-Giuliani years.Walmart Refused to Make a Confederate-Flag Cake, Happily Made an ISIS One Instead
The company says that the employee had no clue it was a terrorist flag.Introducing the J-Cone, New York’s Kookiest New Novelty Ice Cream
The J-Play ice-cream truck specializes in cones made of puffed corn.Check Out This Cheesy Spin on Chicharrón at Rosie’s
Marc Meyer’s riff is less taco and more frico, with lacy shards of baked cheese.Here’s All the Food at Brooks Headley’s Superiority Burger
There's strawberry sorbet, a broccoli salad, and a vegetarian Sloppy Joe.Burger King’s Veggie Burger Might Be Coming to America
The company launched it in India.You Can Now Buy ‘Chillary Clinton’ Beer Koozies and a ‘Grillary Clinton’ Spatula
They're available at the presidential candidate's web shop.