Steve Schirripa Has No Problem With Little Italy, Steaks

Steve Schirripa

Steve Schirripa eats his way through New York, and your
computer.Photo Courtesy Lifeskool

In his new cable cooking show, Steve Schirripas Hungry (Lifeskool network, debuting December 6), Uncle Junes faithful manservant Bobby Baccalieri tours his favorite New York Italian kitchens and takes some sauce-splattered pointers from pals like Raos Frank Pellegrino and Peasants Frank De Carlo. Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld asked the man Tony Soprano immortalized as a calzone with legs to expound on his favorite pastime eating on and off the set.

There are a lot of cooking shows out there these days. What distinguishes yours from the competition?
This is a real guy going into a real kitchen; I think after you watch this, youre really going to learn how to make the meatballs from Raos. Its a combination of talking, comedy, and how-to.

Who does the cooking at home?
My wife; I eat, she cooks. Which is why Im doing this new show. Theyre teaching me how to cook.

In one episode, you spotlight the Mulberry Street restaurant Il Cortile. Do you think that Little Italy gets a bad rap?
I think it does. First of all, its a lot of fun down there. Theres a lot of tourists, but Il Cortile is as good an Italian restaurant as any in the city.

Whats the best borough for Italian food?
Im a Brooklyn boy, but I gotta tell you theres some really good restaurants in Queens: Manducatis, Park Side, Don Peppe, Piccola Venezia.

Whats your favorite Italian restaurant in New York?
Im gonna go with Peasant. Its hard. Il Cortile and Peasant. I also like Bamontes. People have had their christenings there and their funerals there; thats how long that place has been around, you know what I mean?

What food reminds you of growing up in Bensonhurst?
Well, Spumoni Gardens. The pizzas out of this world.

What do you think of the small-plates trend?
This is what I think: If youre going to bring me small plates, you better bring me a lot of small plates. Because when I like to go out, I want to eat. Unfortunately, a lot of restaurants, especially high-end restaurants, give you portions for a supermodel.

What do you think of so-called molecular gastronomy?
I dont want my food cooked with the same tools that they fix my car.

Aside from Italian, whats your favorite cuisine?
Steak. You ever eat at Macelleria? I like that and the Palm.

Whats always in your refrigerator?
Suppressat [soppressata].

Should an Italian restaurant be able to get four stars in the Times?
I think that fourth star is really snooty. And I also dont think people really care that much about your stars. Plus, Ill show you restaurants you cant get in, and theyre not even on the map.

How was the food on the set of The Sopranos?
The food was really good. Whether it be lasagne or the sandwiches in the back of the Bada Bing, the food had to be great because, I mean look at us, we all know how to eat. Theres one thing: As an actor, youre supposed to take little bites, and a lot of times, people spit out the food. I never saw that happen. It certainly never happened to me. There was one scene where I had to eat a steak; I ate about six steaks.

Did you have to keep your weight up during the show?
Well, I actually wore a fat suit for the first two seasons I was on. Im about the same size as Jim Gandolfini, and there were so many fat jokes in the script that Id say, You know, Im not much fatter than him, I dont understand these jokes, and then they said, Oh, by the way, youve got to put this fat suit on. So I wore it, which put on about another 75, 80 pounds, so if you look in those early episodes Im really big. And then I guess they thought Im fat enough on my own, so they got rid of that.

Theres an episode where Tony Soprano tells you that you should seriously consider salads. Have you ever?
Eh, what am I gonna do, get skinny? I think it would shock my system. It is what it is. I really honestly believe, what are you gonna do?
Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld