Having gone through the five stages of Michelin, we are watching Los Angeles' reception of its first red book with a mixture of sympathy and amusement. First comes the shock at how dopey and random the choices are; then how badly the book is written really hits you. L.A. Times writer Leslie Brenner announced today, “What shocked me wasn't who did and did not get stars; rather, it was that the book that purports to be the bible of fine dining is so poorly researched and lamely written that the ratings have no credibility.” Welcome to Michelin land, L.A. Next year's will be even lamer, despite your well-founded gibes. You stab it with your steely knives, but you just can't kill the beast.
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