Grub Street

The current issue of New York features a command performance by Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld. Their extensive guide to the new trend of food markets spun off from restaurants belongs on every New Yorker's refrigerator door — these stores are "stocked with the precision and artistry of museum curators." And in their guise as the Underground Gourmet, they introduce us to a former art-supply store now serving what the Robs say is some of the best Mexican food in Brooklyn. Something tells us Dumbo General Store is going to be packed this week.

For a coda, the Robs offer three new openings: a Haute Barnyard exercise for former Uovo chef Matt Hamilton, at what used to be Frutti del Mare; a straightforward neighborhood bistro by a Vongo alum in Soho; and a takeout taqueria attached to Los Dados. Add in some Batali-Bastianich alumni, and it’s all just too, too much. Elsewhere in the section, there are simple cannellini beans at the Greenmarket and very un-simple creations by Fabio Trabocchi at the new Fiamma, reviewed by Gael Greene.

Restaurant Openings: Belcourt, Shorty’s.32, and Los Dados.
Shop Like a Chef (Preferably in His Own Store)
The Underground Gourmet: Mexican for Dumbo
In Season: Cannellini Beans
The Insatiable Critic: Fiamma
Scatter Like Fennel Pollen