Bruni Maintains Luger’s Middling Reputation; Bar Fry’s Tempura More Varied Than You’d Think

Frank Bruni complains about the steak, the service, the sides, and the salad at Peter Luger but caves and hands it two stars. [NYT]

Restaurant Girl gives Elio’s two and a half stars, citing its “charming lure of old-world” Italian, code for a menu that has barely changed in 26 years. [NYDN]

Alan Richman visits Il Mulino and in crushing it strikes a blow against “this style of oversized, oversauced, overcooked cuisine” with all the force he can muster. [Bloomberg]

Robert Sietsema presents a brief history of fried food before getting around to praising Bar Fry’s wide array of tempura, even if it does stain your pants. [VV]

Saju’s long, soft launch elicits ridicule from Randall Lane: “This is middle-of-the-pack, all-over-the-map fare, at best.” [TONY]

The variety of Soto’s seafood menu sets it apart from other high-end sushi joints, but Paul Adams finds the service disgraceful. [NYS]

P*ONG proves overly complicated at times for The New Yorker’s Ligaya Mishan, but the small plates still impress: “The flavors are classic but the textures startle.” [NYer]

Peter Meehan is surprised to like Southern Hospitality ribs, provided they’re takeout. And don’t order anything else. [NYT]