The dean of bialy studies says Kossar's isn't it anymore.Photo: Patrick McMullan
In our tribute to Kossar’s
bialys yesterday, we pointed to the imprimatur of the august Mimi Sheraton, whose book The Bialy Eaters
is the definitive work on the subject. Well, the last we heard, Sheraton loved the place. But no more, apparently: “The Book was written a long time ago and times change, as do bialys,” Sheraton writes. “[Kossar’s makes them] barely with any onions and much too soft, bland and puffy, often with barely defined center wells. The only thing I buy there now are mini-discs, i.e. miniature pletzels, with poppy seeds and, with luck, onions.” So there it is. We’ll probably still go on eating Kossar’s bialys, but now with a diminished sense of triumph. Live and learn.
But, Sheraton tells us, there is hope for a new yardstick bialy.
"The only problem [with Kossar's] is, I do not know of a better one … hear there is something good at Avenue M and East 15th Street in Brooklyn, but have not checked it out." No problem, Mimi, we will check it out, and report back early next week.
Related: Riding the Orange Line: Bialy You Can Be