Keeping all your eggs in one skillet.Photo: Melissa Hom
Most brunches offer “your choice of eggs,” but Colin Alevras of the Tasting Room is taking the concept to an almost ludicrous degree. In an act of Haute Barnyard extremism, the chef is giving customers the choice of eight different kinds of eggs: goose, pea hen, duck, wild turkey, pheasant, guinea hen, black silky chicken, and of course regular organic farm eggs for the terminally unadventurous.
So what’s the difference? “The smaller eggs, like the goose, pea hen, duck, and guinea hen, are almost all yolk,” Alveras tells us, “so they’re richer, stronger, and more oily; they’re really intense. The big ones, like wild turkey and pheasant, have such strong, thick yolks that it’s almost like hollandaise sauce.” Whichever segment of the menagerie you do get should be ordered with a side of Flying Pig Farms bacon, which Alevras recommends dipping in the yolk. “We encourage people to get them sunny-side up,” he says. “You really get the taste that way.” It’s easier for the cook, too. “That goose-egg yolk is so hard you almost can’t scramble it.” Not that any self-respecting barnyard gourmand would want to.