The Center Cannot Hold, and Why Would You Want It To?

Suba

Take us to your fifth new leader.Photo: Jeremy Liebman


This week brings together some disparate threads of the great suffocating quilt that is the New York food world. Modern Spanish and Latin food have almost nothing in common, other than, in the form of Suba and Rayuela, getting one star each from Adam Platt. Uptown Gael Greene rocks out Southern Hospitality. Downtown, Rob and Robin find a chef that knows all there is to know about the frying game and discover whats happened to restaurant matchbooks in these days of the smoking ban. Plus, Kirby cucumbers are in season this week.

Platt: The Fifth Chefs a Charm
Restaurant Openings: Margaret Palca Bakes and BarFry
Insatiable Critic: Southern Hospitality
In Season: Kirby Cucumbers
Hamburger Helpers
Innovation
Pig Outs
Road Food [NYM]