Wait, so it’s not re-opening soon? What about this hastily-written note then? Photo: Melissa Hom
In what might be the least surprising news of the summer, Will Goldfarb has told Grub Street that Room 4 Dessert, at least in its current location, is kaput. (The place has been closed for months, but Goldfarb has been promising it would reopen.) “We’re officially pulling the plug on 17 Cleveland Place,” the cake whiz tells us. “But we’re going to reopen, bigger and better, six months from today.” Goldfarb, theatrical as ever, refuses to disclose the location of the new place, except to say that it’s downtown “in another high-profile restaurant row.”
“It’s twice the size of Room 4 Dessert, but in the same basic layout. That means it will be a megabar, one that can hold 100-plus people.” Goldfarb’s Faustian intellect seems to be bubbling away. For one thing, he’s not sure that the new place will be called Room 4 Dessert. “We may just have a symbol, like the Artist Formerly Known As Prince,” he tells us, with the utmost seriousness. “We’ve got a glyph we’re working on now.” Plus, he may drop his all-dessert stance and embrace the small-plate snack-bar concept, per P*ONG and Tailor (assuming Sam Mason ever pulls his shit together), or, as he puts it, “Momofuku and Degustation.” He also assures us that there are a number of other secret projects in the works that he can’t discuss. We can only hope he keeps them a better secret than the closing of Room 4 Dessert.
Related: Will Goldfarb Is Changing the World, One Kiosk at a Time