How has Govind canvassed the city he hopes to conquer? “I went to Fatty Crab — I had a sous-vide chicken thigh that was pretty phenomenal. Also some awesome charred-squid salad.” Armstrong says he does frequent drop-ins at the Spotted Pig, Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison, Pastis, and Kittichai, but lots of affluent out-of-towners stop in those places. If Armstrong is going to make a go of his light, understated California-style cooking, we think he ought to emulate some of the edgier places around town. Take a page out of Fatty Crab or Ssäm’s book, Govind. Get aggressive! New York will love your salt-crusted porterhouse, but most of your organic, locally sourced California food, lovely as it is, will not set you apart from your rivals.