<div class="image"><img src="http://nymag.com/images/2/daily/food/07/08/30_ginsberg_sm.jpg"/></div>
A reader sent us this Ginsbergian screed earlier this week, which struck us as a perfect snapshot of the restaurant world, circa summer 2007. We leave you now for the holiday weekend. Enjoy!
DanYelle as <a href="http://nymag.com/daily/food/2007/08/restaurant_girl_has_a_face_for.html">a restaurant critic</a>? Anne Burell <a href="http://www.nydailynews.com/lifestyle/food/2007/08/28/2007-08-28_wine_bars_raised.html">shticking it up</a> in the kitchen with a skirt with horsies on it? David Chang morphing from shy nice smiley ramen guy to <a href="http://nymag.com/daily/food/2007/08/when_chefs_play_dressup_1.html">F-bomb dropping Esquire spread</a> noodle mob boss? Johnny Iuzzini in <a href="http://www.johnnyiuzzini.com/">a meringue body stocking</a>? Tattoos as the new talent. <em>Top Chef</em> as the new Michelin. <a href="http://nymag.com/listings/restaurant/barfry/">Glorified fryers</a>, grass fed peaches, <a href="http://nymag.com/daily/food/2007/08/the_steak_worlds_portrait_of_dorian_gray.html">1,000 day meat</a>. I mean, it’s as if we are all now Cracker Jacks ripping open the next prize every time we open a menu. It's always going to be a disposable toy. Or wash-off ink. It's a 3 onion ring circus, this industry. We have our freaks and our clowns and our daredevils and our bearded ladies. It's "<a href="http://nymag.com/daily/food/2007/06/eds_lobster_bar_calls_a_press.html">I invented the lobster roll and that white wicker chair to sit on while you eat it.</a>" Huh? It's sellouts: <a href="http://nymag.com/daily/food/2006/10/having_hit_rock_bottom_rocco_d.html">Bertoli</a>, <a href="http://home.businesswire.com/portal/site/google/index.jsp?ndmViewId=news_view&newsId=20070828005126&newsLang=en">Starbucks</a>, <a href="http://www.ming.com/target/">Target</a>, <a href="http://nymag.com/daily/food/2007/06/terrance_brennan_gives_the_tv_1.html">FreshDirect</a>, <a href="http://www.applebees.com/MediaPressRelease.aspx?id=41">Appleby’s</a>. It's all hypocritical: Eat fresh … and then buy my frozen dinner meals. Hitchcock would have tapped into a whole new genre with the horror of the food world.<br>
—<i>An Appalled Spectator</i></blockquote>