Hill Country Triumphs; Perilla Gets Measured Praise, Three Times Over

Peter Meehan hails Hill Country as the barbecue to beat in New York, at least as far as beef is concerned: [The deckle brisket] is a thing of balance and of beauty. [NYT]

As much as Meehan liked the place, Steve Cuozzo may like it even more, not hesitating to crown it New Yorks best: Lots of New York places now claim to have real barbecue, and some truly do. But until they catch up with Hill Country, theyre just blowing smoke. [NYP]

15 East feels the glow of two-star approval, especially for its star octopus. Ushiwakamaru, though not as good, is cheaper, and thats worth something. [NYT]

Randall Lane wasnt floored by any of Perillas main courses but was impressed by the experience as a whole. He closes by saying, Ive never seen Top Chef, but after eating at Perilla, I have reason to take the shows name at face value. [TONY]

Perilla doesnt receive as much favor from Lauren Collins, who likes it well enough but doesnt seem especially smitten: [Chef Harold Dieterle] mostly pleases both the foodies and the fans. [NYer]

Paul Adams, meanwhile, adds to the consensus that the place is rock solid in execution and even fairly creative: All in all, its got to be a good day for Harold Dieterle and his backers. [NYS]

Tiffin Wallah, Curry Hill's Indian newbie, receives the Robert Sietsema seal of approval for its genius combination of three different regional vegetarian cuisines. [VV]

Alan Richman complains about the complexity of the menu at Insieme and gets his licks in on the much-debated lasagne, furthering the restaurants strangely mixed critical reception: Everybody loves the wine and some of the food and finds reason to mention that you can see Times Square through the curtains. [Bloomberg]