Cardoz isn’t cooking with them; on the contrary, “they’re too good to do anything with but just skin and eat,” he says. Every meal at Tabla ends with a complimentary mango, and will until Cardoz’s stockpile runs out. They arrive halved, and sliced in a crisscross pattern that makes for clean and easy eating when the skin is pushed in. These mangoes are ridiculously sweet; without even a hint of fibrousness, they melt in your mouth like candy. The ban was lifted too late to allow in the king of all mangoes, the celebrated Alphonso — although Cardoz has a couple of cases even of these squirreled away for his personal use. So if he owes you a favor, now is definitely the time to collect.