Japanese eaters, Huh says, know that the secret is in the broth, and Setagaya uses a traditional recipe using just 10 percent meat and 90 percent ingredients such as dried anchovies, clams, scallops, mushrooms, ginger, garlic, and (the secret weapon) Vietnamese salt, all boiled for five to six hours every morning. The noodles (made exclusively for Setagaya in California) are cooked for 50 seconds so they’re crispy and not as salty, Huh says, as Momofuku’s, and they're combined with pork that’s barbecued on a charcoal grill. Ramen is the only thing on offer at Setagaya, but in a few weeks Oriental Spoon, a Pan-Asian restaurant serving sushi along with a few Malaysian and Thai favorites, will open in the back of the restaurant, with a garden behind it. If nothing else it’s something to tide you over until Momofuku moves to a space that’s less crowded than an Indian trolley car.
Setagaya, 141 First Ave., nr. St. Marks Pl.; 212-529-2740.