Insieme Just Misses; One Big Up and One ‘Eh’ for P*ONG

Insiemes bid for a third star went about the same way as Anthos: two stars from Platt, then two stars from Bruni. [NYT]
Related: Italian, Old and New [NYM]

Randall Lane gives five of Time Out New Yorks six stars to P*ONG. Its the first major review the place has gotten, and more than enough to make up for getting dissed by the Sun. [TONY]

Paul Adams, in the Sun, finds Pichet Ongs creations irritatingly twee and precious, except for the desserts upon which the chefs reputation is built. Adams puts his finger on the problem: The same creativity that in the earlier courses gives rise to confusing, unsatisfying combinations is more successful when the unifying power of sugar is involved. [NYS]

Robert Sietsema is the first major critic to praise Soto as being one of the citys best sushi restaurants and he calls attention to a $56 omakase meal that weve heard so much buzz about. [VV]

The Times lavishes some praise on Deans Pizza, a new midtown outpost of the Angelis family (Nicks, Adriennes Pizza Bar), calling out its especially fine grandma pie. [NYT]

The New Yorker checks out Park Slopes Palo Santo and is taken with the food, the room, and the chef an unexpected critical windfall for a neighborhood restaurant. [NYer]