the other critics

Insieme Lauded (Except for Lasagne); Landmarc Squeaks By

The Times finds Provence beautiful, romantic, and well-intentioned, but barely worthy of a single star. A major disappointment for the Marc Meyer/Vicki Freeman team, who had been on a roll with Five Points and Cookshop. [NYT]

In the Post, Steve Cuozzo — judiciously taking the long-term view as usual — makes the case that Amalia, FR.OG, and Insieme, “the best new Italian restaurant since L’Impero,” have overcome weak starts to become some of the city’s strongest places. [NYP]

Paul Adams gives yet another admiring review to Insieme, though he found the much-praised lasagne underflavored and disappointing. His favorite dish: a chamomile farfalle. [NYS]

Peter Meehan gets around to visiting Grand Sichuan St. Marks and praises it for its way-hot specialties, like chicken with “scorched chili pepper flavor.” [NYT]

The Observer’s Moira Hodgson doesn’t like Landmarc much, finding it sometimes competent, at other times “bland” and “greasy.” And then, of course, there is the room, which she compares to the ESPN Zone. Somehow Landmarc got out of this review with one star, but it reads much like Platt’s bagel. [NYO]
Related: Off the Mark [NYM]

Randall Lane seems to have enjoyed his visits to Spotlight Live, but no thanks to the “uninspired” food. This two-star review is probably the best one the place is going to get. [TONY]

As is his wont, Ryan Sutton drops in on Monkey Bar in the first weeks of its existence, takes one meal, and seems to have enjoyed it, more or less; he speaks more highly of Varietal, which has hardly seen any print since being completely done over by new chef Wayne Nish. [Bloomberg]

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