Last week, after over a year of construction, the American Grill finally opened in the old Kiev space, and it will soon be operating 24/7 (it's currently open till midnight). Will the glorified diner be able to succeed where Loside (now closed 24/7) failed? Will old-neighborhood offerings of pirogen and blintzes lure 4 a.m. drunks away from Odessa? Probably not, but ten-ounce Angus-beef burgers topped with Gruyre, proscuitto, or avocado just might, not to mention a sandwich menu that includes the 'wich-hound's holy grail (the hot muffuletta) and a selection of proper entres created by consulting chef Pnina L. Peled, who previously worked with Sensa and Elmo. The owners (three Greek brothers from Queens) expect to instate their beer-and-wine license any day now, but management insists this is a family spot. You know, in case the tots are hankering for a sixteen-ounce steak after a night at Sin Sin.
American Grill, 117 Second Ave., at 7th St.; 212-777-1286.