The seaweed is always greener / in somebody else’s lake …Photo: Melissa Hom
We wouldn’t pull your leg: Jeffrey Chodorow’s newest restaurant, Wild Salmon, opens tomorrow. Will it be a Kobe Club of the sea, leading the restaurateur to further screeds? Or will it redeem his reputation as a hit maker? Judging from this image and the place’s menu — that’s right, menu — we’re inclined to say that he’s headed in the right direction.
Chef Charles Ramseyer, despite our having gently mocked the fact that no one here knows who he is, was adored in Seattle, where salmon is practically the town mascot. And the menu drips with Chodorow’s money: There will be a raw bar with some of the best oysters in the world and king-crab claws, the kind the fisherman crack for themselves on Deadliest Catch. And they’ve spared no expense on the cooked side, either: Besides the three kinds of salmon, there are four other featured fish, Wagyu beef, and Berkshire pork. Given how much nicer Wild Salmon looks than both the hellish (okay, mediocre) Kobe Club and English Is Italian, whose space it takes over, Chodorow seems to be playing the best hand he’s dealt himself in a while.
Wild Salmon Menu [Menus]