One Reluctant Star to Morandi, Big Ups to Fette Sau

Having earlier disposed of Balthazar, Bruni moves on to Morandi and asks: Is this tribute or burlesque? Though he doesnt dig the menus greatest-hits approach, he concedes Jody Williamss food is getting a worse rap than it deserves (seems he read the Platt review). Final word: Morandi can simply feel tired before its time, and not quite worth the struggle to get in and stay upright in the scrum. [NYT]

Spiga, meanwhile, isnt taking a traditional approach and suffers for it, according to Tables for Two. Chef Salvatore Corea has ideas, but too many ideas, in some cases starting with the cocoa gnocchi. [NYer]

Sietsema brings his own Wonder bread to publicity-starved Fette Sau and finds baseball-bat beef ribs, spectacular brisket, damn good flank steak and shredded lamb fragrant with the odor of pasturage. [VV]
Related: Williamsburgs Weird Barbecue Place

Pete Wells shows off his writing chops for a visit to Italian-Japanese spot Matsumi: The soft, floppy half-moons [of ravioli] went limp under a pair of chopsticks, like a protester being hauled off by the cops. [NYT]

Moira Hodgson is more taken with the dcor of Anthos than Adam Platt was but agrees the food isnt there yet: The first time I came here, the dining room was half empty, and we had a three-star meal Another night, the restaurant was full and, judging by the unevenness of the dishes that came out, the kitchen felt the pressure. [NYS]

Reichl on Insieme: The best lasagna in New York. [Gourmet]

Eighty-five-degree weather gets Randall Lane in the mood for Eds Lobster Bar, home of the lobster-roll-inspired ice-cream sandwich: Eds doesnt replace Maine or Cape Cod, but its nice to find a shellfish shrine a lot closer to home. [TONY]

Andrea Strong bonds with a cat sitting on a psychedelic quilt in Palo Santos garden, finds it a magical place. Nothing to do with the rare indigenous herbs on the taquitos. [Strong Buzz]