Morandi: Not so bene.Photo: Jeremy Liebman for New York Magazine
This week’s magazine is an overflowing egg basket of fascinating features. First, Adam Platt proves himself a glutton for punishment: Just a week after successfully securing a table at the Waverly Inn
without being a movie star (just the brother of one), he charges head first into the dining crunch at Morandi
. Rob and Robin, meanwhile, take on the equally ambitious task of attempting the perfect poached egg — part of an “egg primer” that rounds up their favorite dishes and introduces us to specialty eggs that don’t exactly taste like chicken. Meanwhile, Gael Greene opts to down her egg in fish form at the newly opened counter at Wild Edibles
• Platt declares that Morandi has “none of the glitter of Balthazar, the manufactured raffishness of Schiller’s, or even the ditzy slightly louche decadence of Pastis.”
• Eggs inside of bread? With melted cheese on top? Sign us up.
• Should you want to fix your lover an extra-special omelette in the morning, Rob and Robin show you how to make the best of duck, turkey, and pheasant eggs.
• Luckily Wylie Dufresne has more practical uses for hollandaise than the rubdown he confesses to want to give himself: He teaches us the low- and high-tech ways to make the perfect poached eggs.
• Rob and Robin cluck over their top-ten favorite egg dishes, from Joel Robuchon’s $98 caviar-topped rendition to ’wichcraft’s gourmet “egg on a roll.”
• The Insatiable Critic outs a new eatery that’s “quiet as an octopus scooting along the ocean bottom” and tries the oysters-Rockefeller pizza at Wild Edibles.
Not So Bene
A Good Egg
Lay Ladies Lay
He Is the Egg Man
Insatiable Critic: Wild Edibles [NYM]