Dear Grub Street,
I have been an occasional customer of Gramercy Tavern over the past several years. On a recent visit, I was greatly dismayed to find that my favorite dessert, a chocolate dacquoise, was no longer on the menu. It was explained to me that Gramercy has a new pastry chef and he has put his stamp on the dessert menu, apparently at the expense of my dacquoise. I was wondering if perchance you knew the name of the former pastry chef and whether he is working elsewhere.
We agree with you about Gramercy’s dacquoise, a classic, multitiered dessert built of nut meringue. The chef responsible for it was none other than Nick Morgenstern, one of the city’s most talented dessert men, who is currently unemployed. Nick was plying his trade at Gilt until very recently, when he was given the boot by management, a situation we covered in some detail. Until he lands at his next place, we would recommend as a fill-in chocolate dacquoise the fine, milk-chocolate version made by Marc Aumont at the Modern. It’s good enough that you might have to switch your loyalties.
Related: Nick Morgenstern Rips Gilt a New One
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